2002 lexus ls430 door lock actuator

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BACKGROUND: Kismetsdad posted (8/21/10) a tutorial, but the explanation and pictures were hosted off site and taken down by when I needed them in October 2015. My front passenger side lock started acting flaky, so this writeup is based on the front door. I assume the rear door is very similar. Please forgive the total lack of pictures. I hadn’t thought I was going to do a writeup – but the YouTube below will mostly make up for that.I am assuming that you will have watched YouTube: “$6 Toyota Highlander 2005 power door lock actuator fix repair”

to learn how to disassemble the lock actuator, remove and install the motor and reassemble. The general procedure from start to finish has many similarities to our LS430s, but there are specific differences that the following writeup deals with.

THINGS I USED:
Door lock motor: Mabuchi standard (short) length flat shaft FC280PC22125 - $6.50 on ebay delivered (verified Mar. 19, 2018).
Plastic trim tool removal set (optional, but a good idea) – Harbor freight or your local AutoZone etc
Chair to sit on in front of the door while doing most of the work.
Flashlight small enough that I could hold in my mouth and aim (needed those extra arms of the Indian goddesses)
Long large flat screwdriver (tape it to use instead of the trim removal tools)
Small screwdriver (tape it too if you want)
#2 philips head screwdriver
10mm socket
Torx T-30 bit - <$2 at Ace Hardware – I inserted it into a �” 6-point socket and called it good.
Pliers
Boxcutter/Xacto knife
Black electrical tape
Sharpie marker
Blue painter’s tape
Something to hold the outside door handle open. I used a couple of sealed flexible tubes of silicon and adhesive.
Strong piece of wire like handle of a paint bucket – for pulling and pushing actuator rod in assy/disassy.
Something about the height of the bottom of the door PANEL to rest it on while disconnecting wires and cables. –---could be the jack with something soft on top.

TURN OFF THE DOME LIGHT so you don’t run down the battery if this job is not completed in one go.
Use your own method for keeping track of screws/bolts. I use the blue painters tape and Sharpie.

WHAT YOU WILL COMPETELY REMOVE IN THIS PROCESS (not counting wiring connectors and fasteners). There is NOTHING else that needs to be completely removed to do this job.
1. Plastic cover at inside door opening handle
2. Woodgrain switch panel with lock and window switches
3. Inside door panel. The inside door handle surround does not get removed.
4. Flat electrical box inside door (avoids pulling off plastic sheeting)
5. Door latch with lock actuator from inside door housing.

REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL
Overview: There are 3 bottom screws, 4 screws on the panel and a half-dozen or so push fasteners. All of the screws can be removed with the #2 Phillips.
1. Open the door fully and sit down on your chair facing the inside of the door

PREPARATIONS FOR REMOVING THE DOOR LATCH/DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FROM THE DOOR
This is a BIG piece – significantly larger than shown in the Highlander YouTube.
1. Towards the rear of the door midway up/down is an aluminum electrical box. Remove the 2 10mm-head screws and let the box hang loose.
2. Pull back the plastic sheeting (starting from the upper rear) held in place with the sticky black goop. Pull it back far enough to complete expose the upper and lower openings into the door. Pull the lock and door opening cables through the plastic sheet as you pull it back.
3. To the rear and a little below where the box in 1. was, you’ll find a translucent plastic T with a black cable vertically taped to it (in my case with red tape). Cut the tapes on the T to free the cable. You’ll re-tape it on reassembly. There’s a similar T at a horizontal portion of the same cable but you can leave it alone.
4. Near the bottom of the upper opening on the inside of the door, find a horizontal cable and find the clamp that’s holding it to the door. With your pliers squeeze the prongs sticking through the door to free the cable inside the door.

REMOVING THE DOOR LATCH/DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FROM INSIDE THE DOOR.
7 bolts are involved – 5 Torx T-30 for the latch, 2 10mm for the window guide. There is a physical interplay / interlocking among the door latch, window guide and cable that you just freed.
1. Remove 5 Torx bolts holding the door latch to the door. 3 of them are brass and located on the rear edge of the door (as in the YouTube) above and below the latch opening. The other 2 are the only Torx bolts on the inside face of the door. They are located a few inches above and below the latch opening and something like 7-10 inches in from the back edge of the door. They are aluminum color and are very short. Now the door latch is free to move, but leave it where it is. Note that there’s a metal tab sticking thru the door next to one of them and you have to push the door latch in to free that tab from the hole.
2. Loosen rear metal window guide that is within the door. Near the bottom of the door on the back edge remove the 10mm bolt. It’s the only one in the area. You have freed the bottom end of the window track.
3. Now (a picture would be nice!) you need to find and ALMOST completely remove the 10mm bolt that holds the top of the metal window track. It’s maybe 3-4 inches down from the window ledge and similar distance from the rear of the door. You can reach into the lower opening and find the metal window guide track. With the top screw very loose but not out, you can pivot the track forward as needed. DO NOT REMOVE THE TRACK. I removed the track. That was a very bad idea and made a LOT more frustration in reassembling.
4. Put something in the outside door handle to hold it fully open – which will lower the attachment point you’re dealing with in the next step.
5. Pull the door latch assembly in the door a bit forward and down. Now with a flashlight through the upper opening, pointing to the back and up a bit, you will see the vertical metal rod going up from the latch assy. It has a right angle bend at the top. The top is captured by a swiveling clip that you can easily pry off the rod with your long screwdriver. Push (rotate) the clip up and out of the way. Make a hook from your paint can handle or strong wire coat hanger and use it to pull the top of the rod out of the hole behind the clip you just moved. Make careful mental not of what that area looks like – the hole for the rod and the clip. You will want to make a different end (like most of a W) on your stout wire to let you push the rod back into the hole when you reassemble. This reassembly is the 2nd most difficult part of the whole process.
6. Either before or after the next step you can remove the electrical connector from the lower end of the door latch assy. It takes a very strong squeeze on the back side of the connector to release it.
7. Now the door latch is completely free to be removed. Pull it down and towards the front of lower opening. Manipulate the window guide and door latch together as you move both forward. There will be a point at which you can get the fat part of the door latch past the window guide. Try to note where the guide and door latch were when that was possible. I found this part of the reassembly the most difficult part of the process. It’s just tricky and fiddly.
8. Thread the door latch cables through the top opening to allow you to totally remove the door latch assembly from the door through the bottom opening.

REPAIRING THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR
Repair the door lock actuator with the new motor just as you see in the Highlander YouTube. That door latch assy is a little smaller, but all of the steps are similar and in most cases identical.

REASSEMBLE BY REVERSING THE ABOVE STEPS – You will have noticed that I made reassembly notes as I went along. Be happy that you were 1) have an operating door lock and 2) saved some pretty big bucks. My actuator was loud for a while but after a bit it quieted down just like the others.