 Show Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Capacity...................................................................................................................................................................... 400-450 g (14.1-15.9 oz) 2006 1.8 L Civic LX Sedan I'm replacing my compressor, condenser, receiver/drier, and expansion valve. The compressor is shot, the clutch won't engage when connected to a 12 V source and there is debris floating around in the recovered PAG 46. The new clutch will engage when connected to a 12 V source ruling out the relay and fuse.
I'm trying to figure out the volume of PAG to add to the system. I bought an aftermarket compressor, receiver/drier, and expansion valve from Comfort Auto and I flushed the evaporator, and will flush the lines when I'm ready to put everything back together. I'm trying to figure out how much PAG needs to be added back to the system. Comfort Auto said 5.5, the 2006-2009 shop manual says: Since the oil separator is equipped inside the compressor for this vehicle, oil drainage is unnecessary at the time of A/C compressor replacement. That nets to ca. 4.5 fl oz. Comfort Auto and a number of sites on the web quote 5.5 fl oz. I called a Honda dealer and the parts clerk
told me he didn't have a number but that he always puts in 6 fl oz. I didn't realize it when I put the compressor on the car that the sticker said that oil was already added (though no max/min volume nor how much oil the compressor contained) so now I need to take the condenser fan and compressor back off and drain it to determine how much is in there... but I don't know how much total oil I should add. 5.5-6 oz is not that significant, 8%, but 4.5 to 6 oz is 25%. Does anyone have
a good number for this? If it matters, the compressor I bought is labeled: Again, I don't know how much oil is in there, Comfort Auto couldn't tell me so I guess I'm going to drain and discard. I don't really see a point in keeping it, especially over the next 12 hours it is going to be b/w 75-95% RH. I was at AutoZone and purchased "Certified A/C Pro Auto Air Conditioning R134a 1st Charge with ICE 32" in a 12.5 oz can. If I recall correctly the sticker under the hood recommends a minimum of 14.5 oz of 134a. The can states that its contents are 11 oz of R-134a, 1 oz of ICE 32 lubricant, and 0.5 oz drying agent. I'm assuming that these numbers are weights since the front of the can claims 12.5 oz net weight. Does anyone have any experience with this? Assuming an empty system
and that all of the "First Charge" goes into the system, does this mean I should cut back on the volume of oil put into the compressor? Does anyone have any idea what the density of PAG is? I found something suggesting it is just under 1 g/mL so 1 wt oz should be ca. 0.96 fl. oz. or 28.4 mL. Where do you add the PAG oil? There is obviously the suction/inlet side and the pressure/outlet side of the compressor. I was told to put all the oil in the suction inlet for the
entire system (after the compressor was drained). There is, however, a 17 mm plug on the end of the compressor opposite the pulley. Is this for oil addition/removal? Does it serve another function? Thanks in advance... Joined
Apr 26, 2011 · 43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Jun 9, 2012 So I just bought one of those quick ac refrigerants from autozone and I Think I overcharged my system my compressor before I recharged would reset every 20 seconds or so now after a while it sounds like its spewing out a little of the refrigerant and resetting every few seconds . Is this fixable or did I mess it up.? If so should I keep ac off
until I get this fixed? Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app Joined Jun 9, 2009 · 6,518 Posts
Its pretty uncommon to overfill/over-pressurize an automotive a/c system when using r134 in a can, as the cans only hold so much pressure in the first place. But it sounds to me that the compressor is cycling on/off very frequently. I can't recall if thats a symptom of a low charge, or the opposite. My best assumption errs on the side of
low charge, or blockage on the low pressure side. Anywho, the first place I'd check is the fill port check valve, to ensure its not stuck/dirty. Connect/dis-connect refrigerant can a few times, might help determine if the valve is stuck/seized. If that bears no fruit, and if it were me, I'd end up putting a dye in (if I believed the issue to be bigger than a pin prick) -OR- a sealer (if I believed it wasn't severe). Lastly, should you keep the a/c off? I'd say its probably
not necessary. Worst consequence, you're venting r134 - but I don't particularly care. If your low-side pressures aren't above 60-ish psi, you'll probably be fine unless there is blockage on the high pressure side, which is more of a concern. ('Course, thats anyone's guess without the use of proper gauges anyhow.) At that point, I'd be heading to someone smart on a/c systems. Joined May 4, 2009 · 443 Posts
This is what happened, when I overcharged my AC system with a couple of r134 cans... Five seconds after I turned on my AC, I heard a rapid machine gun sound. I took in to a mechanic and he evacuated and recharged my system. It worked really good for 2 years. Joined Nov 21, 2010 · 68 Posts
gauge yes, sealer no. have used the interdynamics gauge and added 134 to a couple cars. in general, a system runs from a low of 25 to 45 lbs max pressure. one can release freon if found to be overcharged. Joined Nov 21, 2007 · 10,300 Posts
Yes you can overcharge your AC system. That "machine gun" sound is the relief valve opening. Overcharging is a very common thing with AC systems. Overcharging will cause it to work for a few seconds to a few minutes then it will start blowing hot again and the compressor will act as if it's low on freon. The only real way to properly charge your AC
system is with a proper recovery and charging unit. And you should never have to "recharge" your AC system EVER!! If it's leaking it's broken. Find the leak first then charge it. Joined Oct 16, 2006 · 4,243 Posts
How much refrigerant did you add anyways? If the compressor was already staying on most of the time it sounds like your AC was already close enough to "full". You might have overcharged it. The Civic doesn't have awesome AC anyways, but overcharging it makes it worse. At this point I'd take it to an AC shop and have the system evacuated
and recharged with the proper ammount (which is done by weight, not pressure) of refrigerant. A low side gauge can't really tell you if you are over / under charged, regardless of what the colors on the gauge say. Joined Nov 21, 2007 · 10,300 Posts
The system specs require only 1lb of freon for the entire system. It's one of the new low freon "green" systems that the manufacturers are trying to go with. They're designing the systems to run with as little freon as possible. They newer systems are running with anything from .7-1lb of freon. That's why these systems are kind of warm at idle and get
colder as the rpms rise. Compared to the older systems that use 1.5lbs and up of freon. Joined Jul 6, 2006 · 388 Posts
I think I did the same thing. How much should I expect to pay to have the system evacuated and recharged? Thanks
Joined Apr 17, 2012 · 106 Posts
So I just bought one of those quick ac refrigerants from autozone and I Think I overcharged my system my compressor before I recharged would reset every 20 seconds or so now after a while it sounds like its spewing out a little of the refrigerant and resetting every few seconds . Is this fixable or did I mess it up.? If so
should I keep ac off until I get this fixed? Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app I believe there is also a "high pressure" cutout switch in the Civic AC systems. So if you are hearing some thumping and bangs, then that's most likely the over pressured AC kicking in momentarily, then the hp switch shuts off the compressor. These new age vehicles carry MINIMAL amounts of freon from strict epa regulations, it's VERY easy to overcharge a newer ac system. Thats when the
high end AC specific pressure guages are the only correct way to do it. Joined Dec 31, 2011 · 10 Posts
I over charged my ac and it did not work at first (no cold air). It sat for a few hour, then I had to use the car again, and the ac started blowing cold air. Don't know what was going on so I took it to the shop. Here what the repair order said, $63 later: Customer added a can of freon this weekend Joined Oct 16, 2006 · 4,243 Posts
/\ Thanks for posting that. I've been looking around for the actual weight the system takes. 15 ounces is a LITTLE more than one of those fat Heineken sized refrigerant cans. This goes to show that if anyone does need to add refrigerant, if you add the whole can, or even more than 1/2 you probably over charged the piss out of it. Can anyone
confirm from Honda that 15 oz is the actual spec? I am going to head over to a friends house who has an AC evac / charge machine and want to get it right. My evaporator has been freezing up on me this summer, I must be a bit low but don't want to guess. Joined Nov 21, 2007 · 10,300 Posts
/\ Thanks for posting that. I've been looking around for the actual weight the system takes. 15 ounces is a LITTLE more than one of those fat Heineken sized refrigerant cans. This goes to show that if anyone does need to add refrigerant, if you add the whole can, or even more than 1/2 you probably over charged the piss out of it. Can anyone confirm from Honda that 15 oz is the actual spec? I am going to head over to a friends house who has an AC evac / charge machine and want to get it right. My evaporator has been freezing up on me this summer, I must be a bit low but don't want to guess. Yes 15oz is correct. Some machines will leave a few Oz. in the lines so I usually add an oz. to the total.
Joined Apr 5, 2012 · 60 Posts
first, i know this has been said already, but you dont measure how much refrigerant is in your ac system by pressure, you do it by weight. you can have normal pressure but not have enough in there.. second. never use those quick recharge in a bottle things. worst **** ever to use, its not 134a. anything ac releated should always go to a mechanic. third.
using any kind of sealant in an ac system is the worst thing to do. if you ever take your ac to a shop and they evacuate that ****, it will mess up the machine. will require a new bottle of 134a and to clean the machine out professionally. im all for doing work on your own car and all but when it comes to your ac, bring it to a shop and get it diagnosed properly. How much freon does my 2008 Honda Civic take?The 2008 Honda Civic uses r-134a refrigerant in its reservoir. This vehicle has a freon capacity of up to four quarts.
What type of refrigerant does a 2008 Honda Civic use?A/C Certified Pro R134a PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil with Ice 32 8oz.
How much freon does a 2007 Honda Civic take?Honda Civic Refrigerant Capacity (1987 to 2022). |
2008 honda civic ac refrigerant capacity
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