Ge profile refrigerator leaking water under deli drawer

This thing is 4 years old.
I've called 3 local places. Nobody will work on this thing.
I have a post on another forum but all they did was confuse me.

I've Replaced so far in the fridge, the fan, the temp sensor and the heating coil around the defroster or whatever that thing is called.
Still however the deli tray has water under it. I guess the drain is clogged. I watched a video where someone bought a bigger piece of metal
called a clip drain evap, but that did not work. In the video the guy put a couple pieces of copper wire around the heating coil, down into the drain hole and this supposedly foxed the problem.
I'd rather buy the proper part, IF IT IN FACT WORKS.

Samsung DA61-06796A Clip-Drain Evap Ref;cull - AppliancePartsPros.com

I'm also told I need this.

Samsung DA82-01415A A/s Assy-Water Leakage NW2 - AppliancePartsPros.com

and this, but I have no part number for this.

http://www.apdepot.com/images/Prod_Images/large/SAM%20DA82-01415A.jpg

Second issue.
Ice maker is making too much noise. I don't know if the arm that senses the ice is working. I pulled it and it's on a spring and it seems to move, but I don't know if it's working or not.
I hit the test button, but I'm not sure what the heck it's supposed to do. What is happening is the ice is getting pushed so far up the front that the circular piece that is in the back that goes around the metal coil that spins the ice becomes dislodged.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi,

I will need to ask Rick about this drain problem, I haven't run into this drain issue before on this model, and apparently its a Samsung made by GE. I'll ask Rick if that's correct as well.

The part number is in the photo link: apdepot.com/images/Prod_Images/large/SAM%20DA82-01415A.jpg

Here's a good photo of it and where you can order it:
Hose DA82-01415A Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

For the ice maker test button: When you push the test button for 15 seconds the icemaker should enter a cycle. If the icemaker does not cycle then the issue will be a bad icemaker.

Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
GE WR30X10131 Icemaker Asm

Jake

Do you have to hold anything shut, like the button on the door or something? I held the button for 15 seconds with the door open and the try out and nothing happened.

Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Just as I was typing this, something dinged and I heard some movement, after it was all together.

As for the other part, where does all that stuff go? I can see that clip, which I assume goes around the heating coil and into the hold, but where does that aluminum go and the hose?

I PM'd Rick, so hopefully he will reply soon.

Jake

Sorry, I was saving this one for last. It's a Samsung so it might take a while. No one wants to work on these is a true statement...lol OK James, first lets check if it is the drain by removing the evaporator cover. Leave the machine on and running so you can check the frost pattern when you remove the cover. Here's how you remove the cover:

Remove the 2 fruit and vegetable drawers and the shelves that are in front of the evaporator cover. Using a small fl at blade screwdriver, pry off the cap from the top of the shelf angle and remove the 2 Phillips-head screws that attach the shelf angle to the cover. Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws that hold the evaporator cover to the back wall. Grasp the shelf angle near the bottom and pull it out and down.

Behind the cover there is a recessed area in the back wall that houses the evaporator assembly. The top of the cover is inserted into the top of the recess and the sides have small arrows that indicate the location of 6 tabs that lock into the recess. Pull the cover out at the bottom, then lower the cover.

From there you can check if the drain is blocked with ice and causing the problem. Note the frost pattern on the coils. It should be a very light coat of frost.

If the drain pan is iced over, unplug the machine and use a hair dryer to defrost it. Use very hot water to clean it out. A turkey baster works well.

Ok, thanks, sounds good. Waiting for wife to give the green light. What do you guys think about the fix I've read about? People have been wrapping 2 copper wires around the bottom of the heating coil and putting 2 curled over pieces, such in a U shape down in the hole. I don't know if that tab in that part kit is sufficient to solve the clogged drain problem. Anyhow, I've had that part off before, replaced the heating col, fan and the evap thermistor about 3 months ago.

Copper wire around the defrost heater and into the drain comes with its own set of problems. If you're going to do it anyways use the aluminum tab. What's causing the the drain blockage? Sometimes just defrosting the drain and cleaning the drain tube is enough to fix the problem. Dust, food particles, and debris is usually the cause and it doesn't take much. A few drops of water don't make it down the drain and freeze around the drain hole or in the drain line and it builds from there. The defrost heater is close enough to the drain hole that heat transfer to a piece of wire won't make much of a difference. The one in there now and in the kit will give you better heat transfer than copper wire and if it's frozen in the drain line now, just replacing it with another one won't make a difference. Since you were in there before and removed the strap start there. It must be tight around the heater to get good heat transfer. Make sure the defrost drain trough isn't bent anywhere and keeping the water from draining. If I was you, I'd just clean it out really good and see if it happens again. Other manufactures have the exact same strap for problem drains that you can add on to the heater. Samsung is the only one that I'm aware of that installs them right from the get go on new machines. There's a good chance, no matter what you decide to do, you'll be doing it again sometime down the road. Good luck!

So this thing is just a lemon basically. When I replaced all those parts before I had the thing unplugged for 3 days. Anyhow, I'll get the parts and try it again. I didn't thoroughly clean the drain last time. This fridge however IMO is junk. But I'm assuming they're all junk, whether it be GE or Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, whatever. I basically have to come to grips with the fact that you pay 2k for a Fridge and you get 4-5 years out of it before the problems start.

I'm trying to convince my wife to just get a big fridge with no water or ice dispenser. Like we have downstairs in the basement. 10 years old, no issues. No electronic touchpad, just a fridge that works.

It's all about saving energy. The way to do that is to use a "computer" to control the operation of the machine. Where most manufactures design a refrigerator and put a computer in it, LG and Samsung design a computer and stick a refrigerator in it. Some major service companies won't even work on LG or Samsung. IMO and the consensus among service techs is they are junk. If you're looking for a machine that won't have any problems, you won't find one. You're looking for one that has the least amount of problems and one that doesn't cost a fortune when it does. That's Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and GE (not the Samsung model). Kitchen Aid, IKEA, Maytag and Kenmore models that start with 106.xxxxxxxx are all manufactured by Whirlpool. Hotpoint, Profile, Cafe' and Kenmore 363.xxxxxxxx are made by GE. Electrolux is the parent company for Frigidaire.