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dewgubbe
Northeast Nebraska Have a 97 Freightliner FLD.Sat outside over night got to bout 2 degrees, had pretty good spot on the concrete of coolant below it. Its leaking at the front seem of the cooler. Leak seemed to stop once it warmed up. Planning on replacing the cooler myself. Looks pretty straight forward. Any tips? It looks like it might not come out the bottom because of clearance to the frame. If that is the case, I would need to remove the exhaust manifold and turbo. Anyone know for sure? Thanks SSG
NW ND I have a C-15 in 01 Pete. Mine has done that several times over the years and I take it to cat shop. They test cooler and replace the orings since that's all it takes. College has always tested good. Never done it myself. 4WD
NE part of SW Iowa I wish you had a picture for us to look at, of the actual truck application; but this may work going rearward. = you would leave the "Front bonnet" bolted to water pump. You still would remove the adapter, that has 2 O-rings on it, at that joint. (by Front bonnet)
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Northeast Nebraska Yes, I think I will have enough room to take it out in pieces like that.I'm assuming just clean the o-ring grooves with a wire wheel, clean up good, lubricate the o-rings with petroleum jelly and slide back together? 4WD
NE part of SW Iowa dewgubbe - 1/29/2018 19:48 Yes, I think I will have enough room to take it out in pieces like that. I'm assuming just clean the o-ring grooves with a wire wheel, clean up good, lubricate the o-rings with petroleum jelly and slide back together? Some advice: A: For cleaning those O-ring grooves, you can take a 2 ft piece of emery paper(of a roll), and "rip it length-wise" = gives you a thin long strip, to get the emery paper down inside the metal grooves, for cleaning purposes. {Sanding back and forth using 2 hands, with CAT part snugged in a vise.} Note: we had a glass-bead machine, so that was our short-cut procedure, for cleaning grooves. B: Make sure to cover the oil holes, with clean rags/towels, on top of that oil filter base unit; BEFORE you clean that Front oil cooler bonnet, with wire wheel and finish sanding/smoothing with a small pad of emery paper = you want those o-ring surfaces pretty smooth, AND get the taper, also. = the parts, with new O-rings, push together "hard enough", and you don't want to damage your new O-rings. C: When you have parts together and back on engine, but bolts are still slightly loose, you will have to slowly tighten the Horizontal 4 bolts, at rear oil cooler bonnet, while slowly snugging the lower oil cooler mounting bolts (vertically from the bottom) = You need to do this, so the new rear O-ring can stay "centered" in its bore and seal properly. Just do a little tightening, at a time, top, then bottom, then top again, then bottom again, etc.etc. and it should work out fine. (Don't need to be too critical of the front, because that older engine uses that 2 O-ring adapter, that can compensate for some unevenness.) [don't forget to buy 2 O-rings for that oil filter base, also; where the oil cooler mounts to it.] pta280ser3
NENE I've replaced those O'rings through the years on A and B series 3406's. I've always used John Deere sleeve soap or dawn dish soap to lubricate the O-rings. Also after you clean up sealing areas with wire wheel, use some finer grit emery cloth to smooth things up before installation. Good Luck! 4WD
NE part of SW Iowa I should warn you; Normally, not all of the coolant will drain out of oil cooler area, after you drain lower radiator hose; so when you remove that rear oil cooler bonnet, expect to have more antifreeze come out. dewgubbe
Northeast Nebraska Thanks everyone, especially 4wdHoping to tackle this job end of the week. Maybe if everything goes perfect I'll tackle the infamous 3406 front cover leak jeff gordon
My one mechanic said just to fill it up. Will quit dripping once warms up. Edited by jeff gordon 1/29/2018 21:18
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halfway between Lapeer and Port Huron, MI If it's just leaking out the front where the adapter slides in just re-ring it no need to remove or change the whole cooler. I've had to replace the orings on a couple of ours for the same thing. 4WD
NE part of SW Iowa Because you mentioned a newer engine, C15; this may apply to your engine.
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Why does my oil cooler keep leaking?Oil cooler gaskets can be defective directly from the factory. Loose seals can cause leaks. When the seal becomes loose, it can allow oil to escape and drip into areas where it can cause corrosion and other problems.
Will a leaking oil cooler cause overheating?When an oil cooler fails, it can force all the coolant out of the engine and raise the risk of an overheated engine, which may lead to possible engine damage. If the leak is significant, you'll notice coolant on the ground or see steam gushing out from underneath the hood.
Does a oil cooler need a gasket?This means that when one of them begins to leak, it will be imperative that you get a quick fix. The oil cooler adapter gasket is among the most important gaskets that you have on your car. When the engine is ran, this gasket will have to work to keep the oil from inside of the oil cooler from getting.
Can an engine oil cooler be repaired?The Industry Standard for repairing old, leaking oil coolers used to be epoxy applied directly to the area of the leak (although at Pacific Oil Cooler Service, Inc., we have never used epoxy to repair a leaking oil cooler – we perform all repairs using only an appropriate Inert-Gas type weld).
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Cat c15 oil cooler o ring replacement
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